How-To

HOW TO: JACKET AS CAPE

19th February 2013

Like it or not there’s no doubt that by now you’ll have seen hoards of people wearing their jackets as capes. If you saw even a few of the streetstyle pics from the last couple of weeks at fashion month you’ll know that it’s a trend that’s alive and kicking. Most likely started by magazine editors a few years ago, shoulder caping has an amazing way of making a person seem nonchalant to the point of not needing arm holes (or even arms for that matter!), but in reality wearing your jacket as a cape involves being anything but nonchalant – it’s actually pretty damn hard work. So if you plan on wearing your jacket as a cape in the near future (the whole short suit trend that’s hitting hard in spring is sure to tempt you), here are a few thoughts – mainly learnt through trial and (a lot of) error on my part. Big thanks to Jess for perfectly illustrating how to wear your jacket as a cape!

Shoulder Span: From experience, one of the major issues you have when wearing your jacket as a cape is that it has a tendency to fall off your shoulders when you raise your arms ie to wave or hail a cab. When choosing the perfect coat for caping, in my experience a wide and well structured shoulder span is much easier to wear (and keep on). Fighting over a cab in rush hour is soooo much harder when your favourite vintage jacket is lying on the sidewalk…

Clutch it: From experience the best bags to use when wearing your jacket as a cape are clutches, otherwise where to hang the strap of your tote bag becomes a major issue – been there done that. Get it wrong and you usually have to wrap the strap of your bag around your hand and end up having it drag on the ground (or is that just me?).

Proportions: Because capes, and indeed jackets worn as capes, can overwhelm your shape (unless you’re six ft tall), for me wearing a slim fitting style on the bottom half of an outfit can give a clean line and proportion, sort of essential when throwing on a bulky coat-cum-cape.

Birds of a feather: Shouldn’t flock together. I’m going to go out on a limb here and say that too many jackets as capes amongst a groups of friends can look like (fingers crossed) french Vogue editor dress ups or (more likely) amateur superhero hour. If you arrive at a party and notice that six of your friends are wearing coats as capes (true story), you may want to draw straws as to who has to wear theirs normally. Or not. This is fashion after all and as they say, more is more, right?

Accept the fact: That some people just won’t like it or get it. And move swiftly on (whilst trying not to pump your arms too much lest your cape fall off).

What are your thoughts? Are you down with jacket caping?

Images: Harper’s Bazaar, Style.com, Song of Style, Tuula Vintage

In How-To, Wardrobe Rehab

How to: sewing vs gluing

14th February 2013

To sew or glue? That is the the question. Although not quite up there with the meaning of life, it’s a question that continues to plague me. I’m pretty sure you’ll have experienced the same quandary when faced with a DIY project, in which you’re tossing up the merits of sewing or gluing it. Making the right choice is often the difference between an item that’ll become a staple in your wardrobe, and one that’s destined to end up in a bag outside your local thrift store after your next cull or worse, in the bin. Although there isn’t a foolproof no-thinking-required method of deciding, I wanted to share my thoughts on the matter – mainly gleaned from making every mistake possible under the sun in my years of DIYing. You live and learn right? I made you a little reference chart too – bookmark/save/pin it for future crafternoons!

When to Sew

Basically when making clothing: To be on the safe side, these days when the project I’m working on is a piece of clothing my mind usually goes straight to sewing. There are times when gluing may be a better alternative, but if you start out thinking sewing and decide on gluing through a process of elimination you’re going to generally get a better end product.
Garments from scratch: Sewing is pretty much the only way to make pieces from scratch. Full stop.
Altering/Reworking garments: It may be possible to alter garments by gluing them but if you want them to last, don’t even think about it. Remember that recurring nightmare you had where you walked down the street naked? Well it’s kind of like that but this is more of a clothes falling off in a restaurant situation. If the garment you are making requires a strong, washable bond between the two surfaces, and you can sew it, then that’s usually the best choice. Basically sewing is the jam for when you are looking for a high quality finish for your item.
Adding trimming or embellishments to garments: Ok so this is one where many of us have gone with the glue in the past, and yes it can work and is often fantastically quick. That said, if you want to create a wardrobe that will look great and last for years and years, take a little more time and get your needle and thread out. You’ll be so glad you did in the end.
Adding pieces of fabrics to garments: Embellishing with sequins, silk or other fabrics? The best way to go here is to sewing. I’d love to tell you don’t bother with sewing, but increasing my skills in the sewing department (even though I am still a lay man at best) has led to much better projects than I wouldn’t have managed without. In this case, if possible turn over the edges of the fabric you are adding to stop fraying.
Best for: Fabrics, some leather projects, adding trimmings and embellishments to garments.

When to glue Glue

When making accessories: Shoes, bags and jewelry items like that are the perfect time to use glue. There are obviously also going to be times where it isn’t possible to sew an item together (the hardness/size of the material you’re working with) and gluing is the best method.
Hems of leather: Did you know that even professionals sometimes glue leather hems rather than sewing them? It all depends on the finish they want but that makes it perfect for DIYers. It’s great because leather can be difficult to sew, particularly thick leather. Fabric glue is encouraged but I’ve also used plain PVA glue before with a satisfactory result. It’s best tp glue and then press the hem down with books to set it overnight.
When adding embellishments to accessories made out of plastic, glass or metal: These types of projects are the perfect time to use glue, preferably a strong quick drying gel type like E6000.
Glitter to leather or plastic: This one’s pretty obvious, PVA glue works well in this situation.
Detailed projects: Sometimes the project you are doing is so detailed that sewing it could take you an eternity. Don’t put off a great project just because it’s a big one, personally I think it’s fine to use glue in these situations, as long you are you are happy for it not to last til the end of your days – and are careful when washing.
When you don’t know how to sew: Not everyone can sew, and although it’s a skill you’ll have for life once you learn it, start out doing what you can and you’ll quickly pick up everything you need. I made lots of projects the easy way using fabric glue when I was starting out, in my opinion every project is a lesson learnt and you’re only going to get better!.
When you’re out of time – Only got a few minutes to do a quick update to a necklace? This is the perfect time to use glue.
Best for: Plastic, wood, glitter, metal, glass, leather, pvc, wood.

Toss a coin (aka you decide):

When attaching fabrics to accessories: sometimes glue will work just as well as sewing, and is also time sensitive, but that will come down to how you’re feeling.
Rhinestones/beads to leather: Sewing or gluing both work, but for me it depends on the quality of the rhinestones/beads and the leather you are sewing it to – if the rhinestones are expensive crystal ones or the bag cost a mint (like this project) I often sew them on, as it’s less risky because glue can ruin both easily. But if both are I think cheap glue works fine.
Fabric to leather: Embellishing boots other other leather products with can be quick with glue, but longer lasting with sewing. Take your pick.
Leather to fabric: Adding leather embellishments to a shirt, dress of other garment? Once again glue and sewing both work but gluing is quick whilst sewing is long lasting. Toss a coin or choose depending on how much time you have.

Ok so that’s my take on the question of whether to sew or glue. Do you ever have projects you can’t decide on or have you ever made a mistake (we all have don’t worry!). I would love to hear your take on the sewing vs gluing debate – cos you know, it’s raging.

In How-To Inspiration Embellished, Fabric, Glitter, Sewing, Techniques, Tools

WARDROBE REHAB: FOREVER TRENDS

7th February 2013

Every season I feel like trend fashion becomes more and more intertwined. The internet and our hunger for the newest and shiniest pieces means that we often start looking ahead to the next season well before this one has even got underway. Admittedly I’m a tiny fish in this tide of the seasons – you’ll often find me plotting the DIYs I’ll be doing at the same time as they’re walking the runway (and won’t be in stores for 6 months!). At this time of year when all the fashion shows start, we’re just about to embrace a new season (Spring!) and wham! We’ve got looks from next season in our face. And let’s not even get started on what it’s like when you live in Australia, you’re a season behind weather wise and 4 seasons ahead trend wise. Although I’m really looking forward to glimpsing what’s in store for us this coming winter ( even though winter is my least favourite season – give me resort any day, even sounds more fun) sometimes it’s nice to pour yourself a cup of tea, take a deep breath and remind yourself that no matter what comes down that shiny runway, all shimmering hair and ‘can’t-turn-left-ness’, some trends will never die. Keep them in your closet and you’ll wear them over and over, with minor updates if required. I love to think of these as ‘forever trends’, cos you know, they’re forever and all. A few of my favourites to follow.

Leopard Print

At one point a few years ago I thought leopard print was D.E.A.D. Probably because I made the mistake of going into a high street store mid sale when animal prints were at their height and it looked like someone had butchered half the Great Migration in there. But as I’ve gotten older prints have stood by me in my wardrobe and I honestly think done right, they’ll live on forever.

Double Denim

Maybe you’re like no way double denim is passe or will be or should be, but it looks so good in this casual and relaxed way that I don’t think it will truly ever pass. So if you hate it, be prepared to see it over and over.

Red on red

Can you say sexy and sleek and amazing all at once? I wear so much red on a day-to-day basis (it’s the extra colour I buy my basics / essentials in) but I know for some it’s not their favourite shade, however I honestly think you’ll never go wrong with red on red.

Florals

Sometimes a major trend that dominates the runways, floral prints worn well are a trend with staying power. As long as you don’t wear head to toe florals, and hell, even if you do – this look will never get old. Pick up some vintage florals and wear them for the rest of your life – til you’re eighty!

Jumpsuits

There’s nothing as elegant as a jumpsuit, and no matter what magazines and the runways are telling you that you should be wearing, you’ll always be the best dressed person in the room with a jumper on.

All White

So crisp and fresh, all white is a major trend this coming Spring, but that doesn’t mean it’s ever any less chic. Even if the runways are all goth and dark, all white is a welcome distraction.

Tone on tone

I’m such a big fan of tone on tone outfits where you dress in only one colour. Not the easiest thing to pull off but striking and a forever trend for those people who can get it right. You sure need lots of clothes in your wardrobe to make it work! Or perhaps just buy your clothes only in one colour?

The Hat

There’s just something special about the addition of a black fedora (or indeed any chic black hat) to your outfit. Although at times they dominate the runway, a fedora is something that’ll live in your wardrobe and do you well, hopefully keeping your head warm til your old and grey.

Polka Dots

Bringing to mind chic mad men inspired ensembles, polka dots have such a sense of fun that I don’t think you’ll ever see them cast off. I’ve had a silk polka dot skirt for 8 years and have worn it monthly – chic and forever.

Stripes

If my collections of breton striped tops is anything to go by (way to embarrassed to say just how many I have!) then stripes are a trend that you’ll be able to wear until the end of your days. I’m sure this is one most of us can get on board with right?

Black and white

Ye olde staple, a simple outfit of black and white will absolutely never ever become outdated. Probably the most forever of the forever trends.

The Perfect Jeans

It’s a pretty simple process, find the style that suits you, and wear it all the time. Full stop.

The moral of this story? Buy forever trends when you see them and you’ll be eternally well dressed regardless of what’s ‘hot’. I’ve only scratched the surface here I know – do you have any outfits/ensembles you think of as ‘forever’? I’d love to hear!

Images:Peony Lim, StreetFsn, Stockholm Streetstyle, Candice Lake, Vanessa Jackman, Tuula, Lee Oliveira, The Sartorialist, Elle, Harpers Bazaar

In How-To, Inspiration, Wardrobe Rehab